You will need to purchase the Timberline body and the right carbide for you chain.
The Accessory Angle Guides allow the Timberline sharpener to work in the 25-degree or 35-degree position, and can be swapped in for the 30-degree guides that are standard with the Timberline. Comes in a pair with hex wrench.
Remember to get the right bit for your chain!
The Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener is a great tool to get professional sharpening results on your saw chain, and keep your saws cutting at peak performance. The Timberline sharpening tool sharpens every tooth evenly, so you get identical height, length, and angle for top cutting results. The Timberline tool is a solid platform for sharpening each tooth with the carbide cutter, which is operated by a hand crank.
The key to the tool is a solid platform that won't bend, flex, or otherwise move during sharpening. This acts as a fixed guide to sharpen each cutting tooth accurately on the chain with little or no deviation. Each tooth is sharpened individually with the carbide cutter fitted on a hand crank. An adjustable stop or pawl pushes the chain forward into the carbide cutter and thus sets the length of each cutting tooth.
This tool is a great way to increase the performance of your saw and increase safety at the same time. The Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener makes getting sharp chains easy for all levels of users.
Rated: Excellent Review by: CW
“I've traditionally hand filed chains and having them professionally sharpened in-between when time permitted. I wanted to try this out because I figure after 10 or so sharpenings it would pay for itself. I've tried several hand-filing guides and though this product is more expensive than a file sharpener and guide, it is well worth it. The sharpener is very high quality construction and comes with a nice case. I was able to bring back a poorly sharpened and dull chain within about 15 minutes after I got it set up with no training besides reading the instructions. Just set it up right and rip through sharpening! set it for your "shortest" link and quickly even them all out (tapered bit allows aggressive material removal). An A+ and I don't usually review things. ”
Employee Review by: Niceguydave
“I tested the new saw sharpening jig from Timberline. Let me start off with saying I was highly skeptical of the device. I am biased from over 25 years of cutting, and hand filing with a round file is second nature. My Silvey turns chain into a extremely hungry tree-eating device.”
“Out of the box, the Timberline is extremely well built from anodized aluminum block, with a nice tooth adjustment screw and leveling screws. Setup is pretty easy if one follows the instructions. I used it on .325 pitch chain. The carbide cutter runs through preset angle guides (30 degrees top plate) and after it is setup on the bar you just move the teeth into the stop and turn the carbide. It gets the top plate and side plates perfect.”
“I ran the saw through cured Doug fir, Cherry and Alder, and it cut just fine. The big benefit of this device is it allows those who aren't good at hand-filing a chain to have razor sharp chain quite easily, which translates to less fatigue, longer saw life and increased production. A great tool for both the occasional and pro user.”
|Manufacturer||:||Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener|
|Made in||:||Assembled in USA of Foreign and Domestic Parts|
Carbides experience most wear the first time a chain is sharpened. This is due to the carbide not seating properly and binding in the hook of the chain. To avoid this, seat the carbide into the chain by leaving the side knobs loose on the sharpener. Sharpen each tooth of the chain very slightly. You will hear/feel a chatter as the carbide spins which will smooth out as the hook of the chain shapes to the contour of the carbide. This is only necessary the first time a chain is sharpened.
One of the most common mistakes users make when first using the sharpener is not leveling it correctly on the bar. This will cause the carbide to not fit correctly when sharpening the opposite side teeth. First, as the sharpener rocks on the carbide try to visually level the sharpener flat on the bar and tighten the side screws. Remove carbide, pull chain forward to the next opposite cutting tooth and try to insert carbide in the corresponding guide. If it doesn't fit, loosen the side screw directly across and move the sharpener up or down as needed to allow the carbide to be fully inserted.
By sharpening every other tooth you don't have to fully remove the carbide from the guide. This is much faster and allows you to have two free hands to pull the chain forward to the next tooth.
If the chain is sharp, but doesn't feel like it is cutting then the depth gauges or rakers need to be lowered. This is the "shark fin" shape directly in front of each cutting tooth. It's purpose is to limit how deep the cutting tooth dives into the wood. As the chain is sharpened not only the length, but also the height is shortened. Eventually these also need to be lowered. Using a flat file, about 2 stokes off the top of each depth gauge is all that is needed. Lowering the depth gauges too much will cause the cutting teeth to take too big of a bite and make the saw jam or worse jump.
Uneven cutting teeth is often the cause. If one side of the chain has longer cutting teeth they will take a bigger bite out of the wood than the shorter teeth. If the chain is cutting to the left that means the right teeth on the chain are longer, and vise versa. To correct, sharpen only the side with the longer teeth. If the bar has worn unevenly it will also cause the chain to not cut straight.
Depending on the size of chainsaw, it may be required to sharpen all teeth on the right side before switching to the left side. This is due to smaller saws having a thinner bar which shifts the path of the carbide and moves the intersection point off center. To adjust for this offset, simply readjust or loosen the rear thumbscrew so that the chain is sharpened evenly. By first working the right side teeth and then switching to the left the rear thumbscrew should only need to be re adjusted once.